GENTLEMEN,
PLEASE FIND BELOW THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR PAINTING YOUR GP-7 MODEL. THESE IDEAS
ARE THE OPINIONS OF THE AUTHOR (ME) AND ARE PRINTED FOR YOUR BENEFIT. IF YOU
READ SOMETHING YOU DON'T LIKE OR AGREE WITH, PLEASE BE NICE WHEN YOU POST
YOUR QUESTION OR MAKE YOUR STATEMENT.
I WILL BE USING SCALECOAT II LOCOMOTIVE BLACK TO PAINT THIS MODEL SO
EVERYTHING SAID WILL BE DIRECTED TOWARD THIS PRODUCT. I WILL ALSO MAKE
COMMENTS ABOUT FLOQUIL AS I HAVE HAD SUCCESS USING THIS PRODUCT, BUT PREFER
TO USE SCALECOAT II PAINTS. FOR QUESTIONS CONCERNING MODELFLEX OR POLLYSCALE
PRODUCTS, I SUGGEST YOU DIRECT YOUR QUESTIONS TO THE LIST AND NOT TO ME.
EARLIER THIS EVENING I FORWARDED A MESSAGE FROM HOSAM DEALING WITH SOME
IMPORTANT ITEMS THAT SHOULD BE ADHERED TO WHEN PREPARING YOUR MODEL FOR
PAINTING AND ALSO FOR THE PAINT PROCESS. YOU WILL SEE THAT I WILL MORE THAN
LIKELY REPEAT SOME OF THE THINGS SAM HAS ALREADY SAID, BUT IT WON'T HURT YOU
TO READ THEM AGAIN. PROBABLY DO SOME OF YOU SOME GOOD. ;-)
ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS THAT YOU MUST DO TO PREPARE FOR PAINTING IS
TO WASH YOUR MODEL TO REMOVE GREASE, LINT AND OTHER FOREIGN SUBSTANCES FROM
THE MODEL. MOST OF US THINK WE'RE NOT OILY, BUT YOU'LL BE SURPRISED TO SEE
JUST HOW MUCH OIL IS SECRETED FROM OUR FINGERS DURING THE BUILDING PHASE.
I SUGGEST THAT YOU USE AN OLD TOOTHBRUSH, A MILD DISH WASHING LIQUID AND WARM
WATER TO WASH YOUR MODEL. CAREFULLY SCRUB THE MODEL IN ALL AREAS BEING VERY
CAREFUL NOT TO DO ANY DAMAGE BY KNOCKING OFF DELICATE DETAIL PARTS. TIME
SPENT NOW WILL SAVE YOU TIME AND GRAY HAIRS LATER.......ASK ME HOW I KNOW.
;-) WHEN YOU THINK YOU'VE DONE A GOOD JOB OF WASHING, REPEAT THE PROCESS ONE
MORE TIME. ( DO NOT WASH THE MODEL IN A SINK WITHOUT USING THE DRAIN
PLUG.........THIS WILL SAVE THOSE PARTS THAT YOU MIGHT BREAK OFF)
NEXT, HOLDING THE MODEL WITH A GOOD GRIP FROM THE INSIDE, CAREFULLY SLING AS
MUCH EXCESS WATER FROM THE MODEL AS POSSIBLE. NOW, USING THE MEDIUM SETTING
ON YOUR HAIR DRYER, CAREFULLY DRY THE ENTIRE MODEL. MAKE SURE YOU'VE CHECKED
ALL THE AREAS WITH DETAILS FOR WATER BEADS. DOORS, FANS, HORNS, GRILLS ARE
GOOD PLACES FOR WATER TO HIDE.
NEXT, I SUGGEST YOU USE YOUR AIRBRUSH AND SPRAY AIR ALL AROUND THE ENTIRE
MODEL TO FIND UNWANTED WATER BEADS.
FOR SCALECOAT II PAINTS, THIN YOUR PAINT IN THE 30-40 % RANGE. FOR FLOQUIL, I
WOULD BEGIN AT 40% AND WORK FROM THERE. THE AMOUNT OF THINNER DEPENDS ON THE
TIP YOU ARE USING AND I SUGGEST YOU USE THE LARGEST TIP THAT COMES WITH YOUR
AIRBRUSH. I FIND IT EASIER TO THROTTLE DOWN A LARGE TIP THAN IT TO OPEN UP A
SMALLER TIP.
ALWAYS TEST YOUR PAINT MIXTURE AND SPRAY PATTERN ON AN OLD SHELL OR A SHEET
OF PLASTIC. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SPRAY YOUR PRIZE MODEL WITHOUT KNOWING WHAT
YOUR PATTERN LOOKS LIKE OR KNOWING IF YOUR PAINT MIX IS TOO THIN OR NOT THIN
ENOUGH.
YOU WILL NOTE THAT IN STEP 12A THAT I GO STRAIGHT TO THE BLACK PAINT AND THIS
IS BECAUSE I INTEND TO USE THE MS DECAL STRIPES ON MY MODEL. LATER IN THIS
PROCEDURE I WILL GIVE MY FORMULA FOR SOU. IMITATION ALUMINUM FOR THOSE THAT
CHOOSE TO PAINT THEIR STRIPE.
STEP 12A) SEE PIC BELOW: NOTE THE AREAS THAT ARE MARKED. THE
FIRST SPRAY PATTERN SHOULD BE FAIRLY NARROW, SOMEWHERE AROUND 3/4" SO THAT
THESE AREAS CAN BE SPRAYED WITHOUT WORRY OF PAINT BUILD UP CAUSING RUNS TO
APPEAR ON YOUR MODEL. YOU WILL SEE THAT THE WALKWAYS, STEPS, DOORS, HORN,
HOOD ENDS AND PILOTS ARE MARKED IN THE CORRESPONDING PHOTO 12A. WORK AROUND
THE STEPS AND HORN AND ANY OTHER PLACES WITH MULTIPLE SIDES TO MAKE SURE ALL
OF THE MODEL IS COVERED IN PAINT. ALSO YOU WILL WANT TO SPRAY UNDERNEATH THE
MODEL TO HIDE ANY GRAY PAINT THAT MIGHT BE SEEN LATER ON AFTER THE MODEL IS
COMPLETE.
STEP 12B) SEE PIC BELOW:
IN THIS STEP YOU WILL WANT TO WIDEN YOUR SPRAY PATTERN AND COVER
THE MORE WIDE OPEN SPACES ON THE MODEL. LOOKING AT PHOTO 12B YOU CAN SEE
THESE AREAS. IN THIS STEP IT'S PERFECTLY OK TO RESPRAY THE DETAILS THAT WERE
PAINTED IN STEP 12A, BEING CAREFUL NOT TO HANG AROUND THEM TOO LONG AND
CAUSING RUNS ON YOUR MODEL. MAKE SURE THE ENTIRE MODEL HAS BEEN COVERED IN
BLACK PAINT. IT'S BEST TO HAVE A BRIGHT LIGHT IN YOUR PAINT ROOM SO YOU CAN
TWIST THE MODEL IN ALL DIRECTIONS AND LOOK FOR UNPAINTED OR LIGHT AREAS.
I USE A PLASTIC SHOE BOX TO KEEP MY MODELS UNDER WHILE THEY ARE DRYING. USE A
SMALL OBJECT UNDER ONE END TO ALLOW AIR TO ENTER THE BOX AND TO ALLOW THE
FUMES TO ESCAPE. AFTER 24 TO 30 HOURS THE MODEL SHOULD BE DRY ENOUGH TO
HANDLE, BUT A GOOD WAY TO DETERMINE THIS TIME FRAME IS WHETHER OR NOT THE
PAINT SMELL HAD DISAPPEARED FROM UNDER THE BOX WHEN YOU LIFT IT UP FROM THE
TABLE.
FOR THOSE OF YOU THAT PREFER TO PAINT THE IMITATION ALUMINUM STRIPE, HERE IS
MY FORMULA FOR THAT COLOR:
MIX IN A ONE OZ. BOTTLE USING SCALECOAT II PAINT:
FOUR (4) PARTS MAINTENANCE OF WAY GRAY
ONE (1) PART ERIE LACKAWANNA GRAY
FIVE (5) DROPS UP YELLOW
THIN TO SUIT AND SHAKE WELL BEFORE SPRAYING.
THIS COLOR COMBINATION MAY SURPRISE SOME OF YOU, BUT IT IS VERY CLOSE TO THE
DRIFT CARD THAT I HAVE. Y'ALL TRY IT AND GIVE ME YOUR OPINIONS.
FOR THOSE PAINTING THE STRIPE, WAIT 24-30 HOURS BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE MODEL
FROM THE DRYING BOX.
THE STRIPE ON THE GP-7'S MEASURES 15" FROM THE SIDE SILL. THE GOLD STRIPE
ADDS 3" MORE TO THIS. I WOULD SUGGEST CUTTING YOUR TAPE TO 18" AND THEN
PUTTING THE GOLD STRIPE IN THE IMITATION ALUMINUM STRIPE, BUT IT'S YOUR
CHOICE.
ALWAYS CUT NEW EDGES ON YOUR TAPE AND CUT WITH A BRAND NEW #11 X-ACTO BLADE
AND ALWAYS CUT YOUR TAPE AT A LOW ANGLE OF ATTACK TO PREVENT RAGGED EDGES.
TAPING THE STRIPE ON THE GP-7 MODEL IS FAIRLY EASY TO DO. THE BOTTOM EDGE OF
YOUR TAPE BUTTS TO THE WALKWAY AND YOU JUST FOLLOW THE WALKWAY ALL THE WAY
AROUND THE MODEL. AFTER YOU FINISH TAPING, USE A SMALL BLUNT EDGE TO BURNISH
THE TAPE EDGES AND IF YOU PAY CLOSE ATTENTION, YOU WILL NOTICE A SLIGHT COLOR
CHANGE IN THE APPEARANCE OF YOUR TAPE WHEN IT'S BURNISHED CORRECTLY. PLEASE
SPEND THE TIME NECESSARY TO OBTAIN A GOOD TAPE JOB OR YOU WILL SPEND LOST
TIME TOUCHING UP THE AREAS WHERE THE PAINT SEEPED UNDER THE TAPE.
YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO LOOK AT YOUR MODEL ALL THE WAY AROUND AND NOT SEE AN
UN- TAPED GREY AREA ANYWHERE. THE ENTIRE STRIPE SHOULD BE COVERED AT THIS
POINT AND THIS INCLUDES ALL THE STEPS AND AREAS AROUND BOTH BATTERY BOXES.
AFTER YOU HAVE PAINTED THE MODEL BLACK AND YOU'VE CLEANED YOUR AIRBRUSH,
REMOVE THE TAPE COVERING THE IMITATION ALUMINUM STRIPE BEING CAREFUL NOT TO
TOUCH THE WET BLACK PAINT. PULL THE TAPE OFF AT A LOW ANGLE SO AS TO PREVENT
POSSIBLE PAINT LIFTING. WORK SLOWLY AND PULL SMOOTHLY. THE REASON FOR
REMOVING THE TAPE AT THIS POINT IS THE EDGES WILL STILL BE WET ENOUGH TO
BLEND IN AND NOT ALLOW THEM TO BECOME FUZZY AND BUILT UP ON THE MODEL.
IF YOU ARE SATISFIED WITH YOUR RESULTS AT THIS POINT, PLACE MODEL UNDER THE
BOX AND ALLOW TO DRY FOR 24-36 HOURS.
IF YOU GOT A SMOOTH, GLOSSY FINISH YOU ARE READY TO DECAL. IF YOU THINK YOU
NEED A GLOSSIER SURFACE, APPLY AN EVEN COAT OF FLOQUIL GLAZE TO THE ENTIRE
MODEL AND ALLOW TO DRY.
WE'LL WORK ON THE TRUCK SIDEFRAMES AND CHASSIS IN THE NEXT STEP AND ALLOW OUR
MODEL TO DRY COMPLETELY BEFORE WE DO ANY DECALING.
STAY TUNED!!
BOB HARPE
GUYS,
I E-MAILED MY VERSION OF HOW TO PAINT YOUR GP-7 OUT TO Y'ALL LAST NIGHT AND I
LATER REALIZED THAT THERE WAS ONE IMPORTANT SUBJECT THAT I BARELY TOUCHED ON
AND THIS CONCERNS MASKING TAPE AND HOW TO USE IT. LET'S TALK ABOUT THIS A
LITTLE BIT MORE.
I HAVE USED SCOTCH PAINTER'S MASKING TAPE FOR AS LONG AS I CAN REMEMBER. THE
PRODUCT NUMBER IS 185 AND SHOULD BE AVAILABLE AT MOST ALL GOOD HOBBY AND
ARTISTS SUPPLY SHOPS. THIS TAPE IS NOT SUPER STICKY TO BEGIN WITH, BUT ONCE
YOU REMOVE IT FROM THE CUTTING MAT, IT BECOMES LESS STICKY, BUT STILL HAS
PLENTY OF ADHESION TO STAY IN PLACE ON YOUR MODEL UNTIL YOU FINISH PAINTING.
THIS TAPE IS THIN AND WITH PROPER BURNISHING WILL GIVE CRISP, SHARP EDGES
THAT YOU CAN DECAL TO WITH NO PROBLEMS. I WOULD SUGGEST THAT YOU USE SOME
SORT OF CUTTING MAT TO CUT YOUR TAPE ON AND ALWAYS USE A NEW BLADE WHEN YOU
DO CUT A NEW EDGE.
PLACE YOUR TAPE ON THE MAT AND USING A THIN, STRAIGHT RULER, CUT A NEW EDGE
ON ONE LENGTH OF THE TAPE. FOR THE IMITATION ALUMINUM STRIPE, I SUGGEST YOU
CUT A SCALE 18" OR A 21" WIDE STRIP OF TAPE. IF YOU USE 18", THE GOLD
STRIPING GOES ON ABOVE THE STRIPE AND IF YOU USE 21' THE GOLD STRIPING GOES
ON THE STRIPE. FIND A GOOD STARTING PLACE ON YOUR MODEL AND BEGIN LAYING THE
TAPE IN THE SAME PLACES WHERE THE STRIPE APPEARS ON THE PROTOTYPE YOU ARE
MODELING. WITH THE FIRST PIECE OF TAPE IN PLACE, BEGIN TO BURNISH THE TAPE ON
BOTH EDGES. THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP AS A GOOD TAPE JOB WILL SURELY SHOW
YOUR LEVEL OF CRAFTSMANSHIP WHEN IT IS REMOVED. YOU'LL EITHER HAVE A CRISP,
CLEAN STRIPE OR YOU'LL HAVE BLACK PAINT ON YOUR STRIPE AND TEAR DROPS ON YOUR
T-SHIRT. ;-)
WHEN YOU'VE COMPLETED THE ENTIRE STRIPING ALL THE WAY AROUND THE MODEL AND
YOU THINK YOU'VE DONE A GOOD JOB OF GETTING A STRAIGHT STRIPE AND A GOOD JOB
OF BURNISHING, GO OVER IT ONE MORE TIME JUST TO BE SURE. A FEW EXTRA MINUTES
OF MEASURING AND BURNISHING HERE WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF EXTRA MINUTES IN THE
END. PROBABLY SAVE YOU A FEW DIRTY WORDS ALSO.
OK, THE TAPE IS ON AND WE'RE SATISFIED THAT BOTH EDGES ARE SEALED, LET'S MOVE
TO THE PAINT BOOTH. BEGIN BY SPRAYING THE EDGES OF YOUR TAPE WITH A NARROW,
3/4" TO 1" SPRAY PATTERN. COVER BOTH EDGES OF THE TAPE WATCHING FOR RUNS. ONE
IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER, NEVER SPRAY DOWN INTO THE TAPE EDGE OR UP INTO
THE EDGE............UNLESS YOU ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO. ALWAYS, IF POSSIBLE, SPRAY
AT A 90 DEGREE ANGLE TO THE TAPE EDGES AS THIS WILL LESSEN THE CHANCES OF THE
SECOND COLOR SEEPING UNDER A MINUTE SPOT WHERE THE TAPE DIDN'T ADHERE TO THE
PLASTIC AND GETTING ON YOUR PRIMARY COLOR. ALSO, NEVER APPLY ANY MORE PAINT
TO THE EDGES THAN NECESSARY TO GET PROPER COVERAGE AS TOO MUCH PAINT CAUSES
BUILD UP AND MAKES FOR POOR DECALING.
AFTER YOU HAVE GOTTEN GOOD COVERAGE ON THE STRIPE, MOVE TO THE DOOR EDGES,
WALKWAYS AND DETAIL PARTS WITH MORE THAN ONE SIDE (HORN, ETC.) USING THIS
SAME SPRAY PATTERN.
NOW OPEN THE TIP OF YOUR GUN TO A WIDER, CONTROLLABLE WIDTH AND FINISH
PAINTING THE REST OF YOUR MODEL.....INSIDE AND OUT.
I SUGGEST NOW YOU FIND A CLEAN SPOT TO SET YOUR MODEL ON AND CLEAN YOUR
AIRBRUSH. AS SOON AS YOU FINISH THIS STEP, BEGIN TO REMOVE THE TAPE ON YOUR
STRIPE. USING THE POINT OF A NEW # 11 BLADE, FIND AN OVERLAP ON THE TAPE AND
BEGIN REMOVING THE TAPE. ALWAYS PULL THE TAPE SLOW AND SMOOTH AND ALWAYS PULL
AT A LOW, 30 DEGREE ANGLE TO PREVENT PULLING THE PAINT OFF THE PAINTED
SURFACE.
NOW YOU KNOW AS MUCH AS I DO ABOUT PAINTING. ANY QUESTIONS??
BOB HARPE
QUESTION:
IN A MESSAGE DATED 3/8/2003 9:04:12 AM EASTERN STANDARD TIME,
MGARBER819@COMCAST.NET WRITES:
> QUICK QUESTION FOR YOU BOB ABOUT MASKING FOR THE STRIPE. ON YOUR ORIGINAL
> STEP 12 POST, YOU SAID THE IMITATION ALUMINUM STRIPE WAS 15" PLUS 3" FOR
> GOLD STRIPE FOR A TOTAL OF 18". THE LATER POST ABOUT TAPING MENTIONS 18"
> PLUS 3" FOR A TOTAL OF 21". HERE I AM, CONFUSED AGAIN, HA HA. SURE GLAD I
> GOT YOU HERE IN THE ROOM WITH ME,
ANSWER:
MIKE AND OTHER GP-7 MODELERS,
I APOLOGIZE FOR CONFUSING SOME OF YOU IN POSTING THESE DIFFERENT MEASUREMENTS
ON THE WIDTH OF THE IMITATION ALUMINUM STRIPE, BUT I'LL TRY AND SET THINGS
STRAIGHT HERE.
IF YOU WILL LOOK AT YOUR WITHERS SOUTHERN MOTIVE POWER BOOK, YOU WILL BE ABLE
TO SEE THE DIFFERENCES THAT I REFER TO.
THE STRIPE ON THE FIRST GENERATION DIESELS, GP-7'S, 9'S, 18'S AND SD-7'S, 9'S
AND 24'S MEASURES 18" AND THIS INCLUDES THE 3" GOLD STRIPING. LOOK AT ANY OF
THE PHOTOS OF THESE LOCOMOTIVES IN THE WITHERS BOOK AND YOU'LL SEE THE STRIPE
IS THE SAME WIDTH AS THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE WALKWAY AND THE BOTTOM OF THE
LATCHES FOR THE BATTERY BOXES. MEASURE THIS DISTANCE ON YOUR GP-7 AND YOU
SHOULD GET A SCALE 18".
THE STRIPE ON ALL SECOND GENERATION LOCOMOTIVES MEASURES A TOTAL OF 21" AND
THIS INCLUDES THE 3" GOLD STRIPING. AGAIN, LOOKING AT YOUR WITHERS BOOK, TAKE
A QUICK LOOK AT THE WIDTH OF THE STRIPE ON EVERYTHING FROM THE GP-30'S TO THE
B-30-7A1'S AND YOU CAN SEE THE DIFFERENCE.
I HOPE THIS EXPLANATION CLEARS UP ANY CONFUSION THAT I MAY HAVE CAUSED IN MY
PREVIOUS POST.
BOB
© Bob Harpe 2003
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