Future Floor finish is manufactured by: S.C. Johnson & Sons Racine, Wi. 53403-2236 For more information on Future and other products go to S.C. Johnson On the bottle(1pt 11oz) I'm looking at there are recommendations for removing Future after every 6-8 applications(on floors). The recommended removal method is to use 1 cup ammonia and 1/4 cup Armstrong Floor Cleaner in 1/2 gallon of cool water. This amount should make the correct amount for submerging a typical plastic body to strip. Seems strange there is no mention of Future on their web site! The following if from a talk-list... Folks, Future can and should be airbrushed, and can be done so straight from the bottle without thinning. This stuff is already much thinner than any paint. When airbrushing, the desired level of gloss must be built up in thin layers to prevent puddles and runs. Experiment, and don't put the airbrush too close to the model as it puddles and runs much quicker than paint. Using Future over dark colors, black in particular, you may experience a milky haze forming. when you see this happening stop at once and let the future dry completely before adding any more layers. It will go away as the Future hardens. For me, this haze has always gone away if allowed to dry. I model Clinchfield and naturally paint a lot of black cars and have seen this often. Dry means a couple days. Others may be able to, but when Future is dry and has fully hardened I can not scratch it with my finger nail unlike Testors finishes. During decaling, you may notice the haze forming around the decal after the setting solutions have started doing their thing. My advice here is to get good at positioning decals rapidly and don't panic. This is the moisture softening the Future. A Future coated floor will do the same thing if water is allowed to stand on it for a period of time. Again don't panic when it starts to turn white and by all means don't touch it either. Also don't use excessive amounts of setting agent (that is leave big puddles on the decal to air dry). As the agent reacts with the Future, you may get a "fisheye" in the gloss coat around the decal. I always coat with future after decals or dry transfers as well. This gives the paint and markings a uniform level of gloss on which to apply the flat finish, eliminating the old problem of the decals/ transfers drying more flat than the paint. I hope to be able to attend the fall meet where I have tenatively offered to demonstrate the technique. This process is not that difficult or any more time consuming than solvent type clear coats. It does take getting used to, and I recommend practicing on some models you don't mind stripping if you goof. It is not a technique for the unskilled and I don't recommend trying this or any new technique on your latest prize effort. Personally I will never go back to solvent gloss coats. With Future, there are no offensive fumes, water clean up, a highly superior finish when applied correctly, and cheap too!! The next best finish is probably Floquil Crystal Coat in my opinion and it is difficult to apply well and is a very very distant second. I recently finished a Southern gondola using this Future technique and a set of Herald King decals. I will gladly put this one up to anybodies to compare finishes with the best. As close as six inches from the face in all but the brightest light, at any angle the decals are nearly filmless, and have the same flatness as the paint Give it as shot, and if any of you have more questions please ask. Mike Baskette© S.A. McCall